If You Can't Climb It At Least You Can Drink It

Pole, Pole!

Day 3 - Horombo to Kibo Base Camp

Pole(with emphasis on the l and e) translated to english means slowly. Pole, pole - slowly, slowly which is one of the trademark sayings on Kilimanjaro.

The last stretch to the Kibo huts. This is where a lot of people turn back because of high altitude sickness. You can see in the above picture the path that leads to Gilman's Peak on Kibo and ice on the left just below the cloud.

Three views of victorious Mawenzi from Kibo base camp. People often think only Kibo is Kilimanjaro but its only Kibo they see from photos and images of Kili(Mawenzi and Kibo are two peaks on Kilimanjaro). Very few people have made it to the top of Mawenzi - its only recommended that skilled rock climbers climb it due to its high cliff faces and deep crevices.

Day 4 - Kibo Base Camp to Uhuru Peak

We set off at 12am the next morning. Luckily there was no wind to dampen our spirits but the temperature is still below freezing point at this time. It takes about 5 hours to get to Gilman's Point then another 2 hours to Uhuru Peak passing Stella's Point and Leopard Cave along the way.

The slope leading up to Gilman's Point is possibly a gradient of 80 degrees. No matter how slow I trekked, I needed to stop to catch my breath every ten metres or so. A feeling of nausea and mild headache start to set in, thoughts about turning back come to mind and the bloody drinking water freezes.

Its recommended that head lamps should be used but the moon shine made the dark and difficult situations a little more light and bearable. By the time we reach Gilman's Point its still dark and its here where we have a short break and congratulate each other for making it so far. Its at this moment when I will never forget the bright meteoroid(shooting star) that we saw on the north-east side of Kibo making its way along the horizon.

The sun started to rise as we passed Stella's Point. From here onwards its more of a rocky terrain with some steep drops on our right. The rock then clears leading us to ice. Not far now till we reach Uhuru Peak.

In the above picture mount Meru can be seen in the distance(the dark triangle sticking out of the clouds).

First site of the glaciers and the Uhuru Peak sign in the distance brings a feeling of overwhelming joy and relief.

Time passed quickly and we had to make our way back then I had a chance to get some great shots of Gilman's Point and a wonderful image of Kibo Huts.

Horombo

What seems like the edge of the world is just in fact cloud. This must of been my favourite place of the route. First site of the cloud cover made me want to jump onto it imagining it an enormous and welcoming bed. At night I spent a few minutes star gazing. Its so bright and clear, clean of smog and city lights, it was easy to spot several satellites. I cant remember the last time I have seen the consellations and milky way so vivid.

"Around 1760, Horombo of the Chagga, known as 'Kilimia - The Conqueror', became their first paramount chief and controlled the entire Kilimanjaro area. He attempted to create a vast state but was killed by the Masai; his unification policy failed." - http://www.ntz.info/gen/n00245.html#id03995

Jambo Rafiki

Kilimanjaro Trek - Marangu Route


Day One - Marangu Gate to Mandara Camp

A drive from the hotel through Moshi and villages on the south slope brought us to Kilimanjaro Park headquarters. Here we registered and in the meantime I pondered about how I would escape the madness I got myself into.

From here the vegetation zone is densely populated sub-montane agro-forest. Water droplets fall from the branches of camphorwood and yellowwood trees. Sound of rushing water can be heard. The tree ferns (Cyathea manniana) are huge. The trees branches are covered in 'old man's beard' and lichen.


These two Tanzanian boys were following us up so I decided to take a picture. They weren't smiling at first so I told them to smile and my guide Milton translated. The taller boy then said: 'something, something'. After two snaps I happily gave them something. They followed us for a while and vanished when they realised I wasn't going to take more photos of them.

Half way up to Mandara huts we stopped for lunch. We weren't the only ones who were hungry - a bushy-tailed Mongoose(Bdeogale crassicauda) was looking for a munch too. I assume that it is used to the people stopping at this spot for lunch, to grab a bite from fallen food and handouts.

This road is used by porters, maintenance and ambulances. Guides and those looking to conquer Kili have to take the long muddy route.

Finally after 3-4 hours of hiking through forest, we arrived at Mandara huts(camp) - a name given to it from a tribe chief Mandara who believed the mountain was a god and thought it was blasphemous to climb it.

Day 2 - Mandara Camp to Horombo Camp

From here the forest clears to slowly reveal moorland and heath. The appearance of fog becomes apparent but its actually cloud cover that we pass through.

Two hours into the hike and Kibo will show itself displaying its melting icecap.

Coming up to a ridge you can see the Horombo huts but before any lying down or having a deserved snack its a another half-an-hour hike up another slope. The walk is slow paced but the breathing doesn't show it - long deep breathes, nausea and a headache are signs of high altitude.